Here’s a story about one of my favorite DIYs. Scroll down for my step by step instructions.  I completed a lot of firsts with this one which made it so rewarding when I finally completed it. First time drywalling, first time making cabinets and cabinet doors, and first time wallpapering. I really love DIY because it allows me to build custom to my space, plus the satisfaction is nirvana. There really is nothing like appreciating work you've done with your own hands. 

My house was built in the late 80s, has an interesting layout and needs a lot of updating. More importantly, my house needs storage!!! This is the reason I wanted built-ins with lots of storage! I felt like a wall of cabinets was going to be too bulky looking, which is why I ultimately chose a desk with storage for the project, plus it will give the kiddos a place to do homework when they get to that age. This little nook is a part of an addition that the previous owners did. The area used to be a back porch that they added sliding glass doors to, and it became part of the living space. I think the renovation was done in the early 2000s and they added interesting laminate shelves to the cut-out areas of the previous windows where the windowsill would be. It really was interesting, but the first step in my built-ins was to make this cut out a wall and remove the weird laminate windowsill. 

After removing the sill, I added some 2x4s, so I had a frame to screw my drywall to. Then, came the challenge…drywall! This was my first time drywalling, and it really is a test of patience. For me, layers and layers of drywall mud was the answer, that with a can of drywall texture and I covered any little imperfections.

Next was really sitting down and planning the dimensions. To do this, I always use painter’s tape so I can really get a better picture of how it will look, plus it is easy for me to change. 

Then I created my gameplan. The game plan includes a timeline, the material for each step, and exactly how I execute each step. This allows me to set attainable goals and ‘little wins' along the way which is crucial in every DIY. These little wins keep my confidence up throughout each project. My game plan went like this: 

1. Furring strips

2. Bottom cabinets

3. Desktop

4. Upper cabinets

5. Doors for all of the cabinets

6. Drywall, trim, wallpaper

Furring strips: I had to add furring strips because half of this wall was cement and half was a hollow area that was covered from an old window. The wall is also stucco because it used to be an exterior wall so it is extremely textured. It was important to have these to ensure ease of secure cabinet installation. 

Bottom Cabinets: 

1 sheet of 4’x8’x ¾” birch plywood (1 of 3 for total project),  1”x2” trim, 3” trim

This was my first time making cabinets!!! This was much easier than I ever thought it would be.

1.  I cut 2 rectangles, the height and depth that I wanted each cabinet. If you plan on adding the trim as a face frame, then make sure you take ¾” off of the depth. The height should be your total height minus the desktop width, for me it was 1.5”. Home Depot has a big saw and very nice people that are more than willing to cut it for you. My issue is that I don't like asking for help. So instead, I bought a foam board insulation and I laid it down in my driveway and cut it all at home. I used my Kreg Rip cut to do this, it makes cutting the giant plywood so simple and easy. 

2. Next I cut another rectangle the depth and width of the cabinet to make the bottom of the cabinet. I used my kreg jig to make pocket holes in the bottom of the cabinet on either side so I could connect the bottom to the 2 sides. 

3. I attached the bottom to the sides about 3” from the bottom of the sides. This varies depending on the trim you get. I used 3’’ trim so that is why it is 3’’ from the bottom. 

4. I cut 3 inch strips from the remaining plywood to add more support to the cabinet. I added 2 on top, and one on the back with more pocket holes.

5. Next I installed them in the space. I leveled each one front to back and side to side. This was harder than I thought, especially since the area used to be a back patio and the floor itself isn't the most leveled floor. Lots of shims did the trick

6.  I added 2’’ trim to the face of the cabinet with wood glue and brad nails.

7. Then I added 3’’ trim around the base of the cabinets which hides the shims that keep it leveled, plus it gives the cabinets the built in look. For this project, the floor had such different levels closer to the wall and corners that I ended up adding more shoe molding to cover small gaps between the cabinet and the floor. I ended up loving the look.

8. Finally, the finishing work of the lower cabinets. I fill all the nail holes and seams on the surface with wood filler. Any corner seam gets caulk. Everything gets sanded first with 120 grit, then 220 grit, then 320 grit. This is tedious but necessary for a smooth finish. Then prime, sand with 320 grit, paint, light sand with 320 grit, paint, and finally seal. 

Desktop: Birch plywood 1 sheet of 4’x8’x ¾” birch plywood (2 of 3 for total project)

This is my favorite DIY trick to date. I wanted a thick desktop, but when I checked out the price of a thick piece of wood I was shocked. I was looking at about $400 for just the desktop!! The whole reason I love DIY so much is because you can get a great piece of furniture at a fraction of the cost. So I went to work on figuring out how to create a great looking desktop that is not only durable, but also attractive. I decided I was going to use the same plywood that I did to build the base cabinets. 

1. First, I measured the length of the total desktop I wanted. This was going to go from the wall on the right side to the edge of the cabinet on the left side, with a 2” overhang. I chose which side I wanted to be on the top of the desktop. I tried different stain combinations until I was satisfied. Then it was time to cut. 

2. I wanted the ¾” wood to have the appearance that it was 2”-3” thick. To do this, I used the same plywood and mitered the edge to give it a thick look. I mitered a 45 degree edge 2.5” from the edge all the way down the plywood to make the front edge of the desktop. 

3. Then I mitered another 45 degree right on the edge, then cut a straight edge at the depth of the desktop. Then I would be able to rotate the front edge piece and it would perfectly fit the mitred edge of the top of the desktop. Below is a diagram of the cuts that I made to make this edge. I was able to make all these cuts with my circular saw and my Kreg Rip Cut.

5. After all the pieces were cut, I did a dry fit to make sure it was perfect. Then I put glue and used my pin nailer to nail it in place until the glue dried. I also used clamps to make sure it was extra tight. I let it set overnight and it was solid!! I filled the small gap on the mitered edges with wood filler. Then I took the long edge of a screwdriver and rubbed all the mitered edges to soften the edge. 

6.  I wanted to stain and finish the desk top before installation. So I did the same sanding procedure: 120 grit, then 220 grit, then 320 grit. I stained it by painting the stain on then rubbing the excess with old t-shirts that are designated for trash. (These are ones that aren’t quality enough to donate). I did another light sand with 320 grit, then poly x4 coats!!! This is a desktop that needs to withstand my kids and my husband so multiple coats were necessary.

7. Installing the desktop was tricky. I had to add height to the cabinets because the desktop was faux thick. Plus this needed to withstand a body weight, because, ya know…kids. So I ended up adding support pieces that connected the two bottom cabinets. Then I screwed the desktop in from the bottom to secure it. Simple as that, and no screws are seen, and my desk is custom!

Upper Cabinets: Birch plywood 1 sheet of 4’x8’x ¾” birch plywood (2 of 3 for total project), the remainder of the sheet of plywood from the desktop, 4'x8'x1/4 " birch plywood

The upper cabinets are essentially the same as the lowers. I wanted to add adjustable shelves to the upper. I used the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig to add holes to the interior of both sides of both cabinets. This needs to be done prior to assembling the cabinet. Then  I repeated the cabinet making steps again for the top cabinets. Just adjusted to make the cabinets taller, and thinner in width and depth. Not going to lie, it was really hard to determine the size for these upper cabinets. I wanted them to be as big as possible to ensure no space is wasted and storage is optimized, but I also wanted a functional and comfortable desk. I taped the wall over and over again. Originally I thought I was going to do the same width as the bottom cabinets, but I quickly realized that would be wayyy too bulky. I taped the size a million times, which can definitely help you imagine things, but it's still not going to replicate the final 3D version. To see the 3D version I ended up cutting the sides of the upper cabinets and holding them in place to determine the width of the uppers. I also did the sanding and painting prior to installing. And I added ¼” plywood on the back of the cabinet to close it off. (I skipped this step in the lowers because I wanted to run wires for my printer.)

After trimming it out, I filled in the front seams and nail holes with wood filler, the corner seams got caulk again, and then did a little sanding and painting. The sanding and painting prior to putting the cabinet together was a huge time saver! So glad I did it this way on this one. 

I made some shelves and used iron on wood edge banding. It's important to use the same species of wood if you’re staining. I painted my cabinets so it just adds a true finished look to the edge of the shelves. 

Doors: Remainder of the sheet of 4’x8’x ¼” plywood plus 3”x ¾” x 8’ trim (varies on the amount depending on the size of the doors) 

This was my first time making cabinet doors, and they’re hard! I tried to make them where the plywood would slide into it but it was really hard to get perfect. I made a faux desktop and now here are some faux doors. 

1. Make a square the size of the door that I want from the plywood. Cut a 2 trim pieces to the height of the door. Cut 2 more trim pieces the width of the door minus 6” (for the side pieces). Connect with pocket holes and wood glue. 

2. Use a router to cut an edge out for the ¼” plywood. 

3. Cut the ply wood to fit the doors

4. Install the plywood with wood glue and weights to hold it in place until the glue dries

5. Caulk the edge where the plywood meets the trim wood

6. Sand, sand, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand paint, poly

7. Use the Kreg Cabinet Door Hinge Jig to install the hinges on each door

8. Install the cabinet doors and adjust the hinges for perfection

Drywall, Trim, Wallpaper

Finally the last phase! In this post I’m just covering my steps for this. Drywall, trim and wallpaper all deserve their own post which will come with time!

1. Cover with drywall with minimal seams.

2. Mud all screws (and seams if necessary)

3. Wet sand (much easier to make it smooth and it needs to be smooth for wallpaper)

4. Add trim to the top border. I added a stop point for the drywall with the trim piece. 

5. Caulk all the seams

6. Prime and paint the drywall so the drywall mud doesn't show through the wallpaper

7. Install the wallpaper!

This project’s timeline was a total of 8 months!! This is real DIY, all the work is done by me while I’m working full time as a nurse and taking care of a 1 yr old and pregnant!! Be patient with yourself, set achievable goals, and try! The cost was about $350 (I already had the primer and paint). I asked our contractor friend how much he would have charged and the rough estimate was close to $2000!